1st trip to the Biblioteca Nacional, and my first proper Spanish almuerzo!

Yesterday was a pretty good day! I got some work done at school, figured out the library a bit better, had a proper Spanish lunch, and got set up to begin work at the Biblioteca Nacional!

The morning was easier yesterday, but with having breakfast, catching up on yesterday's news from home, and getting dressed and ready for the day in a new place, it still takes me awhile to get out the door. I'm sure it'll get better as I settle into a routine. There's so much to gather for a whole day out. I feel a bit like a pack mule carrying my backpack and purse everywhere all day, but it's good to have everything I need.

Trufa understands the benefits of taking it slow in the morning.

All my gear on me for the day

I went straight over to IT in the morning to get my account set up for using the campus networks and printing. Found out I get 400 free pages of printing - woohoo! Way to go SLU Madrid. Hopefully that'll make research a bit easier!

I find that my Spanish is getting a bit better as it has come back to me more throughout the week, but it's still difficult for me to have conversations out in public. However, I've found that if I'm struggling, I can just say "Soy Americana y es mi primer semana en Madrid!" which usually covers all manner of sins. After that people seem just happy I'm trying, and usually tell me that I'm doing very well (which is a lie, but a nice one). I'm still amazed at how friendly and helpful everyone I've approached has been, whether at home, on the SLU Campus, or just out in Madrid.

After I was all set up with IT, I sat down in a sunny but rather chilly study room and wrote some emails following up with professors and thanking them for meetings the day before. I want to stay in good contact with everyone while I'm here. When it got too cold I moved into the little SLU library to start looking through the online catalogue to see what's really here. Not much, and it's not easily accessible, but I'm sure there'll be a few books I request. 

At 3pm (or 15:00 - I should really try to get on military time) I went out in search of my first proper Spanish lunch! I went back to Ferro's Café near campus since I knew right where it was and that I had enjoyed my snack there the day before.

The view of the cafe counter at Ferro's from my seat.

I sat down for the Menu del Dia, which is the standard way a big Spanish lunch is done. For a fixed price you get two courses, bread, a drink, and your choice of a coffee or a dessert at the end. There are a few options to pick from for course #1, and a few options for course #2. You just select one dish from each list. Easy, and so filling! There were a ton of words I didn't know. So, I decided I'd pick one thing I knew, and one thing that I didn't, so the second would be a surprise. It was a delicious surprise!

For the first course I picked the Lasagna, something I knew. Spanish lasagna isn't like Italian lasagna, but it was still delicious.

Lasagna, coke from the bottle, and a big "wonk" of bread

For my second choice I picked something at random, and chose "Escalopines." I thought maybe it'd be scallops, which I like so that would have been cool, but it was actually a scalloped cut of meat - it was absurdly good. I tried not to make loud yummy noises as I ate it. And the sauce it came in, no idea what that was, but it was out of this world. I didn't expect the second course to be big - I feel like I got two lunches! I'm fine with that. :-)

The waiters were really nice, though it will take me awhile to get used to the leisurely pace that people eat lunch here. After my second course I had to choose between "postres o cafe" - dessert or coffee. I knew I should have just chosen the dessert, because I'd already had a coke and the coffee would be a lot more caffeine, but, I remembered how good my cup was yesterday and I wanted it again so bad! Spanish coffee is so thick and delicious! Seriously, the best cup of coffee I've ever had. I almost exclaimed with delight after my first sip. I ordered it "con azukar y con leche templada," although when Mom comes, I'll order hers "con leche caliente" because she loves things piping!

OMG so good.

When I returned to campus (now past 4) the librarian had returned from lunch as well, and so I re-introduced myself and began chatting with her about all I hope to do while I'm here. I applied for a SLU Library letter of introduction, and she said she usually wouldn't stop what she's doing and do that for a student right away, but she worked on a PhD in history herself once, and was enjoying chatting with me about it. They don't actually have any doctoral students at SLU Madrid, but she was able to tell me what kinds of resources are available to grad students on the campus and around Madrid and showed me the link to all the libraries in the city. She prepared for my my fancy letter of introduction for the Biblioteca Nacional (she said to wait to go to the Complutensian library until after their exam series is over in a few weeks).

My official letters of introduction for the BN

By this time it was after five, and I still wanted to get to the Biblioteca Nacional! It was a goal for the day, and even if I got there and they were already closed, I wanted to at least make it over there so I know the route. I heard it's not a far walk, but I'm so comfortable with the metro and knew which stop it was near, so I just did that. I'll walk more when I know the city better and when it's a bit warmer out. And I'm glad I took the metro today, because there was lots of interesting live entertainment to see each time I rode it - a gathered band (which was very good), a man with a violin, and a magician! I was the most entertained with the magician. They just went car to car, doing a quick show and then asking for some change. A surprising amount of people did give them change, and they weren't very pesty about it like I expected. No uncomfortable questioning or pleading if you didn't offer any change. I'm on a tight budget here in Madrid so I kept my Euros (plus I mostly didn't want to open my purse on the metro).

Lively latin band. Loved the pan flute especially.

Magician! I was literally less than two feet from him and couldn't tell how he did a single one of the five or so tricks he performed. I was amused.

My mini map of the metro, which folds out into a small map of the city, has been super useful. The metro is easy, but still, I feel proud that I haven't gotten on the wrong train or gotten lost once yet.

When I emerged from beneath the city I headed towards the Archeological Museum (which is around back of the Library). I passed this giant flag and just HAD to take a bunch of pictures of it as I waited to cross the streets. So neat to see it blowing so beautifully at sunset.

I'm in Spain!

I finally got up to the Biblioteca Nacional, and had a total fangirl moment about it because it's just such a gorgeous, stately building! I snapped a couple photos, but wanted to get in quick so I'd have time to apply for my research card. 

MADE IT!

What a beautiful biblioteca!

Greeted by St. Isidore and Alfonso X

I was surprised when I went in that there was so much security to go through, and that I was not allowed to bring my backpack, purse, or coat in with me. I guess Susan told me to expect that, but I was still surprised. Everyone was cheerful about making sure I knew where to go next though so it was all just fine, and they assured me my belongings were safe with the coat check lady. So I brought in only my documents and wallet over to the ID card people. (No camera for this part of my day!) Technically card-issuing time had just passed, but they waved me over like it was no big deal. A nice lady helped me fill out all the forms and got everything processed very quickly. In a few minutes I had my "Carné de Investigador" (Researcher card) and a "Lector" sticker for the day, and was on my way into the library! I did a loop around the bottom floor and ended up right back where I started, so the lady who issued my card came over and escourted me to the general reading room, which nearly took my breath away! It's a gorgeous place to do work. I couldn't take pictures, but here's one from the internet to show you where I sat:

Now it was after dark so it was actually very dark in here, but all the desks have reading lights and it's just as spectacular to see at night. I didn't really bring anything to do for this first visit - honestly I thought it would take longer to get my card set up - but I didn't want to leave right away! So I picked a desk and settled in to read through the Spanish booklet of information on the library - services, things you can and cannot do or bring in the library, collections, maps, etc. They also gave me a flyer advertising private introductory tours for new users of each section of the library, so I'd like to sign up for a few of those, maybe for Monday? I'll have to email to see how to do that. When I left the coat check lady gave me a "bolso plastico" to carry in my belongings for future visits. Can't wait to go back! 

Goodnight, BN! See you next week!

I love these lamps - they look like lit-up manuscripts and they make me so happy!

The library at night

I made my way home later than usual - luckily Madrid feels very safe at night (unlike St. Louis!). When I got home I found a note saying my host family had left for the weekend! What! I was surprised they hadn't mentioned it. At first I was bummed out because I like them and I'd be lonely. But, truthfully I'm glad for the quiet time to process this week. Plus it was fun to yak loudly with Mom over skype in the living room, where the wifi service is best, and not have to worry about being disruptive.

This morning I was kind of hoping to go back to the BN, but they don't do those tours on Saturdays and the library's only open for a few hours today anyway (and I've already missed half of them). Plus the cleaning lady, Luz, is here and I feel like I should stick around this morning. She seems super nice, and I'm sure she's trustworthy, but it feels a bit naive to leave my valuables and documents alone in the house with a stranger my first weekend here. In any case, the BN's catalogue is all online, so I can start doing prep library work here, to get a feel for how to search for sources, what texts I might want to see, etc. Plus I want to finish this first part of my prospectus to send to Damian this weekend, so I've got plenty to work on right here from the apartment.